Effector assembly

Goal

By the end of this section, you will have built the effector.RRP-FISH1-073

Effector

The effector carries the hot end, and is moved in three dimensions by the movement of the carriages on the towers. You will need the following parts:

#ComponentQtyType
1301Effector1Printed
1247.1Nozzle Duct1Printed
1223Effector Plate (MDF)1Laser cut
242M3x16mm cap head screw6Fastener
M3x12mm cap head screw3Fastener
204M3 Nylock nut8Fastener
212M3 plain washer8Fastener
258M3 nut3Fastener
11916mm Threaded steel ball6Hardware
RRP-FISH1-063

Connecting rod joints

Take the printed effector, and fit six M3x16mm cap head screws, each secured with an M3 washer and M3 Nylock nut, similar to the carriage.RRP-FISH1-064
Access to the M3x16mm cap head screws is possibly even more difficult than with the carriages. It really helps having a ball-ended Allen key! Tighten them as with the carriage assembly.RRP-FISH1-065
As with the carriages, check that the screws are flat and straight.RRP-FISH1-066
Screw on a 6mm threaded steel ball to each side. As before, make sure the balls are free from swarf inside, and that they are threaded. Fully screw the balls on, then check that the outside measurement of the balls is close (+/- 0.25mm for best accuracy) to 56mm. You can tighten the Nyloc on the screw to pull the ball out a little, if necessary. If too wide, remove the ball and file down the screw a little, then replace the ball and measure.
NOTE: Kits supplied after 1st November 2015 have steel balls that are not tapped as deeply as previous versions. The outside measurement with these balls will be a little wider, at around 57mm.
RRP-FISH1-067
The precise distance between the balls is actually not that important. What is important is that the distance between the balls on the carriage (see earlier in the instructions), and those on the effector should be the same, as close as possible. The rods that connect the carriage and effector must be parallel, so that the movement of the effector is always square to the carriage. If the distance between the balls is not the same, the rods will not be parallel, and the movement of the effector and hot end will not be consistent, and you may end up printing parts that are not dimensionally accurate.

Effector plate

Turn the effector over, and fit two M3 nuts in the captive holes underneath.RRP-FISH1-068
Take the MDF effector plate, and orientate it so that the holes line up with M3 nuts, and duct holes match the effector. It only fits correctly one way!RRP-FISH1-069
From the top of the effector, put three M3x12mm cap head screws through the central holes, between the connecting rod joint screws.RRP-FISH1-070
Turn the effector back over, and fit the MDF effector plate, again making sure of the alignment. Use an M3 washer with M3 nylock nut on two of the screws, as shown.RRP-FISH1-071
Fit the fan duct on the final screw, with an M3 nut. Tighten all three screws to pull the effector together.RRP-FISH1-072

 

 

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